. Vite Vinifera De Vino's Blog: WBW Bruna Pigato U Baccan

Friday, September 14, 2007

WBW Bruna Pigato U Baccan

For my first WBW (Wine Blogging Wednesday) I opened the new vintage of a Ligurian Pigato - the U' Baccan from Bruna.
I wrote about the wine's younger brother, Le Russeghine a little while ago, and I was curious to try the house's signature wine. U Baccan (dialect for "the boss") grapes come from old Pigato vines and are harvested late. The production is minimal (180 cases) and the wine is made with very little technological aid.
The area is impervious and steep, located near the coast, where the mountains run down into the Ligurian sea. The vines lie in very narrow terraces and it is very hard to work in the vinyards. Pigato is closely related to Vermentino, and it's mostly found in the Ligurian provinces of Savona, Imperia and Genova.
The grapes have red reflection on the skin when ripe, and the wine usually has prevalent minerality and often marked acidity.
I opened up the 2005 harvest, and as soon as the cork was popped, the wine was a little tight but already showing a great spectrum of flavors.
As the wine warmed up in the bottle and in the glass, some tropical scents of papaya and pineapple showed, followed by refreshing and charming notes of white peaches.
The juice kept on changing up to the end giving then petroleum (like in a German Riesling) flavors and some balsamic scents of mint leaves.
The structure of the wine was supported by the low PH, which gave freshness, longevity, and complexity. The firm body completed a very good, interesting and unique wine.
My overall comment for the "U Baccan" is very positive, a white with strong character, aging potential of another 5 to 10 years, good with both fish and meats. I want to thank Robert Chadderdon for letting me discover it.
Buona Bevuta a Tutti


Luca Risso said...

Good note! But let me be boring and correct some sentences.
R. Bruna runs his vines in a village called Ranzo, in the Arroscia Valley. It is not on the see, but 20 km far in the interland behind Albenga (Province of Imperia). Much of the character 8and acidity) of these wines is due to the fact of being real mountain wines.
Your description (and picture..) matches with the 5 Terre territory, in the La Spezia Province, where the vines really falls to the see.


De Vino said...

Grazie Luca for the correction.
My bad :)